CLIMBING IN PERU

 

With Peru Trekking & Climbing / Peruvian Andes Adventures

We offer numerous climbs in the Cordillera Blanca and you can combine your Peru Treks with Climbing in the Peruvian Andes to finish off your adventure!

 

CORDILLERA BLANCA CLIMBING,  PERU CLIMBING and MOUNTAIN INSTRUCTION COURSES

 

 

We offer a range of Peru climbing & mountaineering adventures including:

*Climbing instruction from beginner to experienced level climbers

*Peru climbing summits suitable for beginner level climbers

*Technical & challenging climbing 

 

Peruvian Mountain Guides AssnInternational Professional Mountain Guide

 

All of our Peru climbing guides are accredited and licensed members of the Peruvian Mountain Guides Association, and all climbs are led by UIAGM International Qualified Mountain Guides to ensure your safety at all times. English speaking Peru climbing guides available.

 

UIAGM Guides & Owners of Peruvian Andes Adventures – Hisao & Eli Morales

UIAGM Guides & Owners of Peruvian Andes Adventures – Hisao & Eli Morales

 

 

CLIMBING WITH PERU TREKKING & CLIMBING MEANS:

*Professional qualified guides

*High guide to client ratio

*Safety

*Companionship

*Challenge

*ADVENTURE!

 

 

*Professional Highly Trained Guides and Porters

Each year our guides take part in a refresher training course organised by the House of Guides in Huaraz, and we also organise an annual Peruvian Andes Adventures "In House" training course for our own guides and porters to ensure all our staff are trained and practiced in the latest climbing and rescue techniques and safety standards.

 

 

Hisao Morales & Abel Colona Practising Mountain Rescue

Hisao Morales & Abel Colona Practising Mountain Rescue

 

Peruvian Andes Adventures Porter Training

Peruvian Andes Adventures Porter Training

 

 

Sam & Peter from the USA who climbed Ishinca & Tocllaraju with us June 2008 said this:

While on our climb of Tocllaraju, we were witness to an accident. A group of 2 French tourists and their French guide fell into a large crevice. I cannot say enough for how professionally and quickly our guides took control of the situation and went about helping those in trouble. Later, I found out that it was both of their first accidents. This surprised me, because based on their actions to help and control the situation, one never would have known. Peruvian Andes Adventures is a great guide company that provides a quality experience with great professional guides.

 

 

*Acclimatisation: It is important that you are well acclimatised to the altitude before attempting to climb any peaks in the Cordillera Blanca to avoid possible problems with lack of energy or altitude related illnesses when climbing. Climbing above 5000m is physically demanding, even if the climbing is not steep or technical.

We always recommend a trek of minimum 4 to 6 days for acclimatisation and extra fitness. For climbing 6000m or technical peaks we recommend a warm up climb of a 5000m peak for extra acclimatisation and for your maximum enjoyment and safety.

 

 

*Support: All climbs are led by a qualified & licensed UIAGM International Mountain Guide; From 3 or 4 clients depending on mountain difficulty, there is at least one licensed assistant mountain guide (member of Peruvian Mountain Guides Association). Donkeys carry equipment to Base Camps & climbs are supported by porters who carry tents, equipment and food, but you need to carry your own personal clothes and climbing gear where we use high camps.

 

 

*Safety: Climbing Groups are organised so that in the event of an accident, illness or tiredness there are always sufficient qualified climbing staff on the mountain to effect a rescue and / or evacuate clients safely back down the mountain with a porter or assistant guide while other members of the group will be able to continue with their climb in safety if they wish to do so.

 

 

*Grading: The grading of the climbs is an indication only of the level of difficulty. Even climbs suitable for beginner climbers are graded medium to hard to reflect that the altitude makes climbing on any peak physically demanding.

Although many guidebooks classify some Peruvian Andes peaks as being "Trekking Peaks" all climbs involve using rope, ice axe and crampons and even beginner suitable peaks will have some sections of steep ice climbing in some conditions - which our guides will help you with. To climb in Peru you need to have a good level of fitness and be able to hike and climb for a long day of up to 12 hours over uneven and steep terrain.


We have Peru Climbing for first time climbers through to technical climbing for experienced climbers.

 

Peru Climbing Suitable For Novice Climbers:

*Climbing Course

*Urus & Ishinca

*Pisco

*Vallunaraju

 

Peru Climbing Suitable for Intermediate Climbers or Novice Climbers Who Has Received Some Instruction:

*Yanapaccha

*Huascaran

*Chopicalqui

*Tocllaraju (3 Peaks Ishinca Valley Trip)

*Climbing Course

 

 

Technical Peru Climbing:

*Alpamayo

*Quitaraju

*Artesonraju

*Piramide

*Huandoy

*Climbing & Rescue Course

 

The descriptions here are a summary only. Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions and pricing for climbing and acclimatisation treks.


NOTE:  the routes used and the conditions on all the peaks are changing each year and even each month. The descriptions we have given are general only, and the routes used, conditions on the mountain or description of the routes may change considerably on the day we are climbing.

 

CORDILLERA BLANCA PERU CLIMBING

Summit Tocllaraju 6034m / Hisao Morales and Joe Frani

Summit Tocllaraju 6034m / Hisao Morales and Joe Frani


CLIMBING IN PERU
PISCO 5752m

4 Days, Grade: Medium / Hard (suitable for novice climbers)

 

 

Above The Clouds on Pisco


Above The Clouds on Pisco

 

An achievable climb for everyone - inexperienced climbers ready for a challenge, experienced climbers and also a superb training climb for those tackling the big peaks.


Amazing 360 degrees mountain views from the broad summit!


Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Cebollapampa in Llanganuco Valley 3850m. Climb on a good path to Pisco Base Camp. 4650m 2.5 hours


Day 2: Climb over moraine rocks to Morena Camp. 4900m 3 hours


Day 3: 40 minutes climb on moraine to the glacier, then on the snow for about 4 to 5 hours to the summit. Return to Base Camp mid afternoon. About 10 to 12 hours total for the day.


Day 4: An easy descent down to the road at Cebollapmpa 1.5 hours and return to Huaraz in our private van.

 

Hisao with a happy group

Hisao With a Happy Group on Pisco Summit  (Thanks to Rob & Pippa for Photo)

 

Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions and pricing.


VALLUNARAJU 5675 m 2 or 3 Days,
Grade: Medium / Hard (suitable for novice climbers)

 

Climbing On Vallunaraju

Climbing On Vallunaraju

 

 

Vallunaraju is easily accessible from Huaraz and is an ideal beginner's mountain to summit and also a good site for technical climbing practice. We can include a day of instruction for first time climbers or for those wanting to practice ice climbing or crevasse rescue techniques. A good peak to include at the end of your trek or for extra acclimatisation for climbing 6000m peaks.

 

OPTIONAL: Extra day for climbing instruction


Day 1: Drive 1.5 hours from Huaraz to the Llaca Valley. Then we climb steeply up a ridge for 2 to 3 hours to Morena Camp 5130m


Day 2: A steady and not steep on good snow slopes towards the summit . The last 60m to the summit is steeper and the guide will help. Return back to the road in Llaca Valley and then to Huaraz. About 10 hours to climb & descend.


Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions and pricing.

 

 

CLIMBING IN PERU: YANAPACCHA 5460m 2 or 3 days

 

Grade: Medium / Hard (not suitable for first time climbers)

 

 

Looking for a challenging short climb or an acclimatisation peak away from the more well known and popular Pisco?

 

Yanapaccha is situated in the Llanganuco Valley adjacent to Pisco, but is much less well known and less frequented by climbers.

 

It is a moderately difficult climb with some steep sections and is not suitable for first time climbers, but an ideal peak for experienced climbers or novice climbers who have received instruction and are looking to extend their climbing level.

 

Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Cebollapampa 3850m (2.5 hours), passing by the famous twin lakes of Llanganuco. We hike up towards Laguna 69 then we leave the trail, following a rocky trail through moraine rock and rock slabs to reach Morena Camp near a lake (5000m) 4 to 5 hours

 

Day 2: Cross over large moraine rock until we reach the glacier. The initial ascent onto the glacier is usually a steep ice climb then we reach more gentle terrain on the glacier. We pass by large crevasse fields to arrive at the west face of Yanapaccha which we climb sometimes steeply to the summit. Descend the same way to our camp at Cebollapmpa. 10 to 12 hours for the day

 

Day 3: Return to Huaraz

 

For the 2 day trip, we return directly back to Huaraz on Day 2.

 

Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions and pricing.

 

 

PERU CLIMBING IN THE ISHINCA VALLEY
- 3 PEAKS From 3 to 7 Days

 

 

Climb Urus 5495m Grade: Medium (Suitable for novice climbers)

Climb Ishinca 5530m Grade: Medium (Suitable for novice climbers)

Climb Tocllaraju 6034m Grade: Hard / some technical climbing


Ishinca

Ishinca

 

From one base camp in the Ishinca Valley we climb 3 peaks. Urus and Ishinca can be climbed without previous climbing experience. We will provide instruction and support. We climb these 2 peaks to gain experience and then you should be ready to tackle the more technical Tocllaraju, and perhaps your first 6000m peak.


Climb all 3 peaks, or just one or two.


Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to the village of Collon. Hike to Base Camp at 4390m. 4 to 5 hours


Day 2: Climb Urus East face. A non technical climb and a steep descent on a moraine ridge back down to camp. 7 hours


Day 3: Rest Day


Day 4: Climb Ishinca on a steady slope and not too steep apart from the final 20 metres to the summit. Return to Base Camp. 9 to 12 hours depending on fitness.


Day 5: Climb on moraine to High Camp Tocllaraju on a flat area in the moraine at 5300m. 3.5 to 4 hours


Day 6: Climb to the summit Tocllaraju. There are long sections of easy climbing mixed with steep and sometimes technical climbing. Retun back to Base Camp in Ishinca Valley. 11 to 13 hours


Day 7: Walk down the Ishinca Valley to Collon and return to Huaraz in our private van

 

 

Climb Ishinca Only: 3 days

Climb Urus & Ishinca: 4 or 5 days

Climb Ishinca & Tocllaraju: 6 days

 

On Tocllaraju

Climbers On Tocllaraju

 

Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions, more photos and pricing.

 

CLIMB CHOPICALQUI 6354m 5 Days

Grade: Hard

 

Crevasse Traverse on Chopicalqui

Crevasse Traverse on Chopicalqui

 

With altitude of 6354m Chopicalqui is the second highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca and a demanding peak to climb. You need to be well acclimatised and previous climbing experience is recommended with confidence in basic climbing techniques, climbing steep slope with 2 ice tools, glacier travel and rappel.

From the summit are tremendous views of the mighty peaks of the Cordillera Blanca: Huascaran, Yanapaccha, Chacraraju, Pisco & Huandoy and other peaks more.

 

Day 1: Drive 3 hours from Huaraz up the valley Quebrada Llanganuco. Walk 40 minutes to a Base Camp 4430m.


Day 2: Climb on a moraine ridge to Morena Camp 4820m. 5 to 6 hours


Day 3: First climbing on rock and then on snow slopes of varying degrees steepness to a High Camp on the snow 5380m. 5 to 6 hours


Day 4: Climb to the summit. There are some seracs and crevasses to avoid and some sections of steep climbing. Descend back to High Camp or Morena Camp if you are feeling strong. 9 to 11 hours for the day


Day 5: Descend to Base Camp 4 to 5 hours, then return to Huaraz by private van.

 

Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions, more photos and pricing.

 

CLIMB HUASCARAN 6768m 7 Days
Grade: Hard

 

Huascarán Sur (Left) & Norte (Right)

Huascarãn Norte (Left) & Norte Sur (Right)


The mighty Huascarãn is the highest mountain of Peru, and the highest of any mountains situated in the tropics. It is the principal objective of many climbers that visit the Cordillera Blanca. Although not especially technical, the altitude makes it a very challenging mountain to climb. Huascarãn is an achievable climb for novice climbers with good basic skills and we can provide additional instruction.

 

It is important to be well acclimatised, and we always recommend a trek of 4 days minimum followed by climbing another peak first such as Pisco or Vallunaraju.

 

Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Musho. Hike to Base Camp 4350m 4 hours


Day 2: Rest day in Base Camp while porters establish the high camps, or extra day for bad weather


Day 3: Climb at first on moraine rock and then on snow & ice to High Camp 1 on the snow at 5260m. 5 hours.


Day 4: Climb to High Camp 2 at 6000m. There is some steep climbing with crevasses and seracs to negotiate around. 5 to 6 hours


Day 5: Climb to the summit & return to High Camp 2. An 11 to 12 hour day


Day 6: Return to Base Camp. 6 to 7 hours


Day 7: Walk to Musho 3 hours, then return to Huaraz in our private van

 

Approaching the Summit Huascaran

Approaching the Summit Huascaran

 

Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions, more photos and pricing.

 

CLIMB ALPAMAYO 5947m 7 Days,
Grade: Technical

 

Alpamayo

Sunset High Camp Alpamayo

 

Alpamayo is an amazing pyramid of ice and snow, and was once voted to be the most beautiful mountain in the world. The climb to the summit is steep & technical, and is suitable for experienced climbers only. There are several hours of steep climbing, front pointing with 2 ice picks, fixed rope climbing and there are some 400m of descent by rappel.


Day 1: Drive 3 hours from Huaraz to Cashapampa. then hike to Llamacorral 3750m. 4 to 5 hours


Day 2: Hike to Base Camp at the top of the Quebrada Arhuaycocha 4250m. 4 to 5 hours


Day 3: Rest Day while the porters carry gear to High Camp


Day 4: First climbing on moraine rock, then on sometimes steep ice & snow to High Camp. 5450m. 3 to 4 hours


Day 5: A steep & technical climb on ice to the summit. Fixed rope is used and several rappels are needed to descend. Return to sleep at High Camp. 8 to 9 hours


Day 6: Return to Base Camp. 5 to 6 hours


Day 7: Return to Cashapampa. 7 to 8 hours and return to Huaraz in our private van.

 

 

Add an extra day and climb Quitaraju also! (climbed from the same high camp as Alpamayo)

 

Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions, more photos and pricing.

 

 

CLIMBING CORDILLERA BLANCA: QUITARAJU 6036m 7 days

Grade: Technical

 

Quitaraju is a great peak for climbers wanting a more technical challenge with less difficulty and exposure than Alpamayo. It is climbed from the same base camp as Alpamayo, and offers amazing close up views of Alpamayo. It is a long day climbing and there are sections of technical and difficult climbing.

 

Day 1: Drive 3 hours from Huaraz to Cashapampa. then hike to Llamacorral 3750m. 4 to 5 hours

 

Day 2: Hike to Base Camp at the top of the Quebrada Arhuaycocha 4250m. 4 to 5 hours

 

Day 3: Rest Day while the porters carry gear to High Camp

 

Day 4: First climbing on moraine rock, then on sometimes steep ice & snow to High Camp. 5450m 5 to 6 hours

 

Day 5: We start early in the morning and climb slopes up to 60º to 70 º to the summit. For larger groups or inexperienced climbers we will use fixed rope, and rappel is needed to descend. 9 to 10 hours for the day

 

Day 6: Return to Base Camp. 5 to 6 hours

 

Day 7: Return to Cashapampa. 7 to 8 hours and return to Huaraz in our private van.

 

Add an extra day and climb Alpamayo also!

 

Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions, more photos and pricing.

 

CLIMB PERU ARESONRAJU 6025m 5 Days

Grade: Technical

 

Artesonraju is a beautiful pyramid mountain which you may recognise from the Paramount Pictures movie logo.

 

It is a technical & difficult mountain to climb and is only recommended for experienced & confident climbers. In recent years, Artesonraju has unfortunately been the scene of several serious accidents.

 

We normally climb the Southeast Route via the Paron Valley, but there are several other more difficult routes also.

 

Day 1: Drive from Huaraz to Caraz and then on to Laguna Paron (3.5 to 4 hours) then we trek around the lake to either camp at the head of the lake (1.5 hours) or climb up above the lake one hour more to a nice camp in trees by a stream (4200m)

 

Day 2: We climb up on a prominent moraine ridge. Choice of camps either on the moraine just below the glacier 4900m (1.5 to 2 hours), or climb about another 2 hours up onto the glacier and camp in High Camp on the ice at 5100m

 

Day 3: We leave camp early, first climbing up the glacier on slopes up to 45 deg. to the base of the face. Then the climb to the summit is 50 - 55 deg. for about 600m with the final 100m to the summit steeping to 60 deg. requiring belays. Descend the same way by several rappels and camp at High Camp. 11 to 12 hours for the day.

 

Day 4: Descend to Base Camp

 

Day 5: Walk around the lake to meet our van which will take us back to Huaraz.

 

Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions, more photos and pricing.

 

 

PERU TREKS AND CLIMBS COMBINED

 

CORDILLERA BLANCA & CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH TREKS AND CLIMBS

 

Coffee in Bed on a Frosty Morning

Coffee in Bed on a Frosty Morning

 

Combine your Peru Trek with a Climb in Peru as a package.
There are many options and combinations possible; these are just some of them:


  • Santa Cruz/ Ulta trek and climb Pisco 10 days
  • Santa Cruz / Ulta trek and climb 3 peaks in the Ishinca Valley 13 days
  • Alpamayo Circuit and climb Pisco and / or Chopicalqui 15 to 18 days
  • Santa Cruz / Ulta trek and climb Pisco and / Huascaran or Alpamayo 17 days
  • Santa Cruz trek and climb Pisco and Chopicalqui 12 days
  • Santa Cruz Trek with climbing Pisco & Yanapaccha 11 days
  • Cordillera Huayhuash Trek and climb Diablo Mudo and Pumrarinri 15 days

 

Climbing in Peru

(Thanks to Rob & Pippa for the photo!)


Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions, more photos and pricing.

 

the Peruvian Mountain Guides Association, and we have UIAGM

 

 

SKIING IN PERU

 

A keen skier and looking for adventure? There are several peaks in the Cordillera Blanca a suitable for skiing. Experience the thrill of downhill skiing with majestic surroundings.

You do need to be strong and fit though are there are no ski tows. We have to carry skis up the mountain! (Porters can do this for you). Suitable peaks for skiing in the Cordillera Blanca are Pastoruri, Ishinca, Pisco, Vallunaraju and Tocllaraju

 

Skiing on Pisco

Skiing on Pisco

 

Contact Anne direct for complete descriptions, more photos and pricing.